Family style

Mitzi’s owner was as beloved as her famous dish

By: Janine LeGal

The customers lining up around the block didn’t mind braving the elements and waiting for several hours for their final experience of the Winnipeg institution’s notoriously popular chicken fingers with honey dill sauce. But they were there for another reason, too.

They’d become family members, part of a community of regulars at Mitzi’s, the successful downtown restaurant with an impressive 46-year history. Their love of the place had as much to do with the owner as it did the food.

Shirley Eng had become a mother figure to many of them, in some cases more than one generation of the same family. With her boundless energy, generous heart, and infectious laugh, she always found a way, no matter how busy she was, to uplift those around her with a kind word and a listening ear. Mitzi’s (from Cantonese for “tasty food”), wasn’t just about food, it was about conversation and connection. Eng was grateful for every single customer who came through her doors and her sparkling smile was evidence of that.

Following her retirement in April of this year, Eng was recognized for her community service with a Members’ Statement by Deputy Premier Uzoma Asagwara.

“Shirley took great pride in welcoming everyone. When you were at Mitzi’s, you were not only a customer but extended family,” said Brenda Hardy, a lifelong friend.

“Hers was usually the first face that greeted you on arrival and the last one when you were leaving with a ‘See you again.’ She knew her regulars by name, what they liked and even where they worked. Shirley welcomed one and all to Mitzi’s; people from all walks of life from politicians — various government officials — (to) police, media, sports stars and even rock stars — the list was unending. Everyone was treated with respect and left with good memories and a full stomach.”

After almost a half-century in the food service industry, Eng decided it was time to retire. She spent more time with family, enjoying her newly renovated home and trying out new recipes to share with loved ones.

Eng died on Dec. 1. The mother of three and grandmother to one was predeceased by her husband, Peter — her partner in life and in business — in 2001.

Eng was born in Canton, China, in 1946. In 1958, she moved to Hong Kong with her sister. While working for a bank, she had the opportunity to relocate to England in 1971. Instead, she decided to join her sister in Canada and made the move to Winnipeg, the city that became her home, in 1972.

In 1974, she married the love of her life, Peter. They’d planned to become fashion designers in New York City but life took them on another path. In the early years they opened Chez André, a French restaurant, and a small kiosk at Garden City Shopping Centre, before opening the iconic Mitzi’s Restaurant in 1978.

Intending to operate it for 10 years to fund their original dream, Mitzi’s unexpected level of success meant growing both their family and their business became the couple’s new dream.

“Both Shirley and Peter were not afraid of hard work to build this dream for their family,” said Hardy. “Fourteen to sixteen-hour days were common and visits were always at the restaurant when there was a little downtime between rush hours. Shirley supported Peter in everything. They were the yin and the yang: perfect for each other.

“She was a force of nature, seeming to draw from a well of strength — a strength that she would need when Peter died. After Peter’s death, Shirley continued to care for Peter’s mom, who recently passed at the age of 106.”

Eng’s oldest daughter, Ali Collins, remembers seeing her mother working late into the night, trying to balance the bills after putting in really long days.

“She would work in the restaurant, drive home to make food for the kids, then go back to the restaurant, then sometimes go to bed,” recalls Collins. “She was a very driven woman. I’m sure she was exhausted… she did it for us.

“After our dad passed, she continued everything. She made everything work somehow. She was a positive superwoman. Family was everything to her. The restaurant was to help us; everything she did was for us kids.”

David Eng said his mother adapted easily to everything, wanting to move forward continuously.

“She kind of went with the flow,” he remarked. “Honestly, she was kind of a superwoman, the busiest person I’ve ever met, the hardest-working person I’ve ever met. She never complained. She showed us that hard work and dedication will allow you to do anything. She wanted us to try as hard as we could. I just hope that I can live up to one per cent of what my mom did.”

It wasn’t always serious business for Eng, known for her sense of humour and hearty laughter.

“She made jokes and she laughed at her own jokes,” her son David chuckled. “She spoke at my wedding. She was so funny,” he said, as he remembered her laughter filling the room.

In a eulogy she wrote for her mother, Eng’s youngest daughter, Irene Wallin, said her mother’s fondest memories growing up in China included time on her grandparent’s farm with her siblings and cousins, picnics with friends, and being part of the track and field team. In her adolescent years, she worked as an English tutor and a seamstress, before beginning her career at the Shanghai Bank of Hong Kong.

In 2008, Eng returned to Hong Kong, her first trip home in almost 40 years, where she delighted in seeing her two older sisters again after so long and in meeting many extended family members.

“She was fierce, passionate, generous, devoted and supportive,” wrote Wallin. “Mom lived by the mantra of ‘Work hard, stay humble, be kind, and do your best.’ She wanted to raise her children to be strong and independent and instilled in us at a very young age that we could achieve anything with hard work and determination.

“As a mom, she would always say she’s proud of her children,” wrote Wallin. “As a daughter, I will always say I’m proud of her. Twenty-three years ago, she made the decision to continue our family business with such resilience while teaching her children the importance of family and a strong work ethic. I know our dad would be so proud that his wife carried on their legacy.”

Eng was passionate about supporting the work of CancerCare Manitoba Foundation and Siloam Mission. Contributions in her honour are gratefully appreciated.

fpcity@freepress.mb.ca